![]() ![]() The back end of the housing is relieved with a chisel, so any adjustments have to be made only to the exposed edges of the blade. The end result should be a clean, tight housing for the blade. The housing can be excavated with a drill and chisel, or it can be cut with a chain mortiser. Next, rip the centerline from both sides the mortise will clean out anything left by the stopped cuts.Īfter the shoulder is cut, the blade end is relieved across its center. With that in mind, use a chisel to score the end grain at the end of the housing cut. The joinery is as decorative as it is structural, so it’s important to have clean cuts. Mark the end of the cut to reduce tearout Once assembled, the joint can be pegged through the blades. long, the completed scarf consists of two identical halves. In a completed frame, the scarf is an eloquent representation of the time spent and the level of my craft. It is a time-consuming process, but my speed picks up on the second and third joints. to 5 in.Īccurate layout is critical if you don’t want to spend all day fitting the four face cuts on each half of the joint. To make it stand out more, I increase the length of the blades from the usual 1-1/2 in. This particular timber-frame joint has long been a favorite of mine because of its decorative as well as its structural power. Commonly used in a horizontal application (over a post, for instance), it also can be used vertically. The double-bladed scarf, first introduced in the 16th century, is the strongest joint for joining two timbers. Some have failed miserably, while others have survived centuries. Dozens of scarf joints have been documented over time. A scarf was used to join stem and stern timbers to a center keel. The first documented example comes from the remains of a 7th-century Anglo-Saxon burial ship that was discovered in an English riverbank. One antique doll carriage repaired and ready to be enjoyed.The scarf joint was born of necessity when carpenters needed longer timbers than their forests could provide. And not only is it practically invisible, it's strong too. Now you'd really have to look to see this repair. I just rub it on, blend it in and dab off any excess.Ī top coating of shellac will seal in the stain, provide just a bit of gloss and add a touch of color. On small jobs such as this, I find that a furniture touch up marker works really well. I recreate one in the new piece using a handsaw and a chisel. The original damaged section had a small notch to help hold the axle in place. A little sanding smoothes things out and contours the edges. These ultra sharp rasps called micro planes allow me to shape and surface the new section quickly. But I do have to clean up the wood and see if I can blend in the color. Well at this point, the repair work is pretty much done. Set the section of new wood in place, then clamp it, first to the bench and then to the carriage part. Because I clamped the two pieces together and cut through them both at one time. And I've got virtually a perfect fit here. Now here's the piece that I cut out of that strip of new wood and it should just drop right in here. Then, using my Japanese handsaw, I cut through both the oak strip and the carriage part at the same time. Next, I use a small straight edge to draw cutting guidelines on the strip of oak. What I'm going to do now is lay this on top of the rail. I've cut a small strip of oak the same width as this broken rail down here. I'm removing the part that needs repair so that I can clamp it flat on my work bench. But even more importantly, I want it to be strong. I want it to look good when I'm finished. It's the kind of repair I use any time I've got a break like this. ![]() Well this gives me a good chance to demonstrate something called a scarf joint. Not only is it broken in half though, there's actually material missing. You can see what the problem is right here. This antique doll carriage belongs to a friend of mine and he asked me to repair it for him. ![]()
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